The Globe And Mail - Made It Overseas 竺玛兄妹登上加拿大《环球邮报》！
2017/09/27《环球邮报》-the globe and mail ，是加拿大最著名的报纸，是加拿大两家全国性日报之一（另外一个为全国邮报）。它一直致力于报道国际和国内事务，其社论和新闻报道经常被国外报刊引用或转载。为此，加拿大政府总是向驻外使团选送《环球邮报》，其影响不仅遍及全国，而且在世界上也享有声望。
为了在时尚界取得成功，Alia Juma和Jamil Juma对Bernadette Morra说他们需要拓展一种全球化的视野
To make their mark in fashion, Alia and Jamil Juma tell Bernadette Morra they had to develop a global outlook – and leave Canada for China
如果有人可以称自己为国际化的时尚公民，那就是Jamil和Alia Juma. 兄妹两人现居住在中国，客户遍布巴黎，新加坡，吉隆坡等，他们周游列国，并且定期返回他们在2003年创立品牌的城市，多伦多。
If anyone can call themselves global fashion citizens, it's Jamil and Alia Juma. The brother and sister reside in China, skip around to clients in Paris, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, and return to Toronto, where they founded their brand in 2003.
他们的围巾，斗篷和抱枕系列在全球100多家商店皆有销售，包括Ron Herman洛杉矶，香港Harvey Nichols，以及东京Another Edition. 他们曾与MAC化妆品牌深度合作，为北京四季酒店设计制服，说唱歌手Nicki Minaj，超模Coco Rocha以及歌手Solange Knowles等名人都曾身穿并热衷于JUMA。除了他们放荡不羁，波西米亚式的设计美感，竺玛兄妹最大的财富则是他们游历世界的丰富经历，他们曾在多伦多，温哥华，哈萨克斯坦，刚果等这些城市及国家度过逍遥自在，多姿多彩的童年生活。
Their line of scarves, ponchos and pillows are sold in 100 doors worldwide, including Ron Herman Los Angeles, Harvey Nichols Hong Kong and Another Edition in Tokyo. They have collaborated with M.A.C Cosmetics and Roots, outfitted the Four Seasons Hotel in Beijing, and dressed rapper Nicki Minaj, model Coco Rocha and singer Solange Knowles. Beyond their cool, boho aesthetic, the Juma's biggest asset could be their world view, born out of a peripatetic childhood spent living in Toronto, Vancouver, Kazakhatan and the Congo.
Alia Juma 设计总监
Jamil Juma 创意总监
“我喜欢四处旅行，居住在各个地方，” Jamil从新加坡打来的Skype电话中说道。“任何地方对我都没有文化障碍，我可以和所有人相处融洽。” 竺玛兄妹的父母出生于肯尼亚，相识于多伦多，他们曾从事进出口生意。JUMA品牌官网展示了一家人多年前的照片: 在巴基斯坦-卡拉奇探索市场，在哈萨克斯坦-阿拉木图买地毯，在肯尼亚-蒙巴萨路边的椰子摊前驻足。一直以来，Jamil和妹妹Alia都是通过西方时尚的视角来吸收各国的当地文化，观察马赛人令人惊叹的分层项链，以及哈萨克山地人的天鹅绒帽子刺绣长袍。
"I feel comfortable travelling and living everywhere," remarks Jamil during a Skype call from Singapore. "There is no culture shock for me. I can engage with anyone." The Jumas' parents, who were born in Kenya but met in Toronto, were in the import/export business. Photos on the Juma brand's website show the young family exploring the markets of Karachi, Pakistan, shopping for carpets in Almaty, Kazakhstan, and stopping at a roadside coconut stand in Mombasa, Kenya. All the while, Jamil and his sister were absorbing local cultures through a Western fashion lens, taking note of the Masai's stunning layered necklaces, and the Kazakh mountain folks' velvet hats and embroidered caftans.
多年以后，当Alia从乔治·布朗学院-时装设计专业毕业并创立的JUMA品牌，专注于她成长过程中自然形成的产物：世界感的印花设计，像是把《 Vogue》《meets》《国家地理》等杂志并存，结合高级感时尚与世界文化。此时，Jamil, 曾毕业于麦吉尔大学生物系统工程专业，辞去了投资策略师的工作，开始经营扩大JUMA品牌的商业价值。他们在多伦多/纽约时装周办秀展, 工作室位于‘多伦多时尚孵化器’，2008年，他们搬到了纽约。
Years later, when Alia graduated from George Brown College in fashion and launched Juma, focusing on prints with a worldly vibe was a natural outcome of her Vogue-meets-National Geographic upbringing. Jamil, who has a degree in biosystems engineering from McGill, left his job as an investment strategist to run the business side of the Juma brand. They had studio space at the Toronto Fashion Incubator, and showed at fashion weeks in Toronto and New York, where they moved in 2008.
At the same time, the pair were travelling to China to source fabrics. "Then about four-and-a-half years ago, we said there's something really happening here in Asia," Jamil recalls.
They participated in Shanghai Fashion Week, and were invited by government officials to show in Dalian, a northern port city. "It's a lot like Vancouver, a coastal city with mountains and ocean, but with Soviet- and Chinese-influenced architecture," Jamil describes. "They're much more traditional and less Westernized than Shanghai. And there are big Japanese, Korean and Russian communities because each of those countries came to Dalian through the last few centuries. There's a Japanese area where you only see Japanese people and you feel like you're in Japan – on a Monday night, they're eating and drinking till 3 a.m. And in the Russian area, same thing. It's a very interesting city."
They also found the clothing manufacturing in Dalian to be superior to that in the south, and set up a production studio there. A year later they moved, with Alia settling in Dalian, and Jamil in Shanghai.
There were adjustments, of course. But Alia has a knack for languages, and only took two years to become fluent. And Jamil has learned to love the spicy hot pots that turn his lips numb.
Setting up their business was complicated, Jamil admits. "In Canada, you can go online and register a name. In China, there's tons of paperwork and scrutiny. You have to show financial statements of your other businesses, show you have investment money. And operations are complicated; you have to have full-time accounting in place and submit taxes every month." But from an economic perspective, "it's not that different. They call it a communist country but it doesn't feel like it. They are very business-driven and business-friendly. You can do what you want. You can innovate."
Juma is expanding its home décor category with coasters and blankets, and they've found a great niche in socks. Their own Jumastudio shops are in Four Seasons Hotels in Shanghai and Tianjin, with a third shop-in-shop in Beijing. Jamil feels it's their combination of contemporary styling, mid-price point and unique prints that have struck a chord. "Is it for everyone? No. It's a niche customer," Jamil says. But given that Shanghai alone is almost as populated as Canada, and there are 100 cities in China with more than 3 million people, a niche market is enough.
The Jumas create all their own prints, incorporating photos they shoot themselves, sometimes adding drawings, graphics or digital effects. A tile print based on photos their mother took in Turkey is the team's bestseller. Could the brand be accused of cultural appropriation, a hot topic in fashion today? "When it's tied to religion, that's where you cross the line," Jamil believes. And with the pair's Indian/Kenyan heritage, and exposure to so many cultures from such a young age, it might be odd if all this personal experience didn't seep into their creative output.
Jamil says he and his sister will remain in China for the foreseeable future, given there is so much growth potential for their own line, as well as the products they develop for retail and hospitality clients. But would they advise other Canadian designers to follow their path? Not unless they have something to offer that is truly unique, Jamil says. "You have to create a product that speaks to your heart, that is truly authentic. Without that you don't have a business."