JUMA

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The Globe And Mail - Made It Overseas 竺玛兄妹登上加拿大《环球邮报》!

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2017/09/27环球邮报》-the globe and mail ,是加拿大最著名的报纸,是加拿大两家全国性日报之一(另外一个为全国邮报)。它一直致力于报道国际和国内事务,其社论和新闻报道经常被国外报刊引用或转载。为此,加拿大政府总是向驻外使团选送《环球邮报》,其影响不仅遍及全国,而且在世界上也享有声望。

Fashion

World view

 

为了在时尚界取得成功,Alia Juma和Jamil Juma对Bernadette Morra说他们需要拓展一种全球化的视野

To make their mark in fashion, Alia and Jamil Juma tell Bernadette Morra they had to develop a global outlook – and leave Canada for China

 

如果有人可以称自己为国际化的时尚公民,那就是Jamil和Alia Juma. 兄妹两人现居住在中国,客户遍布巴黎,新加坡,吉隆坡等,他们周游列国,并且定期返回他们在2003年创立品牌的城市,多伦多。

If anyone can call themselves global fashion citizens, it's Jamil and Alia Juma. The brother and sister reside in China, skip around to clients in Paris, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, and return to Toronto, where they founded their brand in 2003.

 

他们的围巾,斗篷和抱枕系列在全球100多家商店皆有销售,包括Ron Herman洛杉矶,香港Harvey Nichols,以及东京Another Edition. 他们曾与MAC化妆品牌深度合作,为北京四季酒店设计制服,说唱歌手Nicki Minaj,超模Coco Rocha以及歌手Solange Knowles等名人都曾身穿并热衷于JUMA。除了他们放荡不羁,波西米亚式的设计美感,竺玛兄妹最大的财富则是他们游历世界的丰富经历,他们曾在多伦多,温哥华,哈萨克斯坦,刚果等这些城市及国家度过逍遥自在,多姿多彩的童年生活。

Their line of scarves, ponchos and pillows are sold in 100 doors worldwide, including Ron Herman Los Angeles, Harvey Nichols Hong Kong and Another Edition in Tokyo. They have collaborated with M.A.C Cosmetics and Roots, outfitted the Four Seasons Hotel in Beijing, and dressed rapper Nicki Minaj, model Coco Rocha and singer Solange Knowles. Beyond their cool, boho aesthetic, the Juma's biggest asset could be their world view, born out of a peripatetic childhood spent living in Toronto, Vancouver, Kazakhatan and the Congo.

Alia Juma   设计总监

Design Director

Jamil Juma     创意总监

Creative Director

 

“我喜欢四处旅行,居住在各个地方,” Jamil从新加坡打来的Skype电话中说道。“任何地方对我都没有文化障碍,我可以和所有人相处融洽。” 竺玛兄妹的父母出生于肯尼亚,相识于多伦多,他们曾从事进出口生意。JUMA品牌官网展示了一家人多年前的照片: 在巴基斯坦-卡拉奇探索市场,在哈萨克斯坦-阿拉木图买地毯,在肯尼亚-蒙巴萨路边的椰子摊前驻足。一直以来,Jamil和妹妹Alia都是通过西方时尚的视角来吸收各国的当地文化,观察马赛人令人惊叹的分层项链,以及哈萨克山地人的天鹅绒帽子刺绣长袍。

"I feel comfortable travelling and living everywhere," remarks Jamil during a Skype call from Singapore. "There is no culture shock for me. I can engage with anyone." The Jumas' parents, who were born in Kenya but met in Toronto, were in the import/export business. Photos on the Juma brand's website show the young family exploring the markets of Karachi, Pakistan, shopping for carpets in Almaty, Kazakhstan, and stopping at a roadside coconut stand in Mombasa, Kenya. All the while, Jamil and his sister were absorbing local cultures through a Western fashion lens, taking note of the Masai's stunning layered necklaces, and the Kazakh mountain folks' velvet hats and embroidered caftans.

 

多年以后,当Alia从乔治·布朗学院-时装设计专业毕业并创立的JUMA品牌,专注于她成长过程中自然形成的产物:世界感的印花设计,像是把《 Vogue》《meets》《国家地理》等杂志并存,结合高级感时尚与世界文化。此时,Jamil, 曾毕业于麦吉尔大学生物系统工程专业,辞去了投资策略师的工作,开始经营扩大JUMA品牌的商业价值。他们在多伦多/纽约时装周办秀展, 工作室位于‘多伦多时尚孵化器’2008年,他们搬到了纽约。

Years later, when Alia graduated from George Brown College in fashion and launched Juma, focusing on prints with a worldly vibe was a natural outcome of her Vogue-meets-National Geographic upbringing. Jamil, who has a degree in biosystems engineering from McGill, left his job as an investment strategist to run the business side of the Juma brand. They had studio space at the Toronto Fashion Incubator, and showed at fashion weeks in Toronto and New York, where they moved in 2008.

与此同时,两人还前往中国采购面料。“然后大概四年半以前,我们说:在亚洲这里有些激动人心的事情正在发生” Jamil回忆说。

At the same time, the pair were travelling to China to source fabrics. "Then about four-and-a-half years ago, we said there's something really happening here in Asia," Jamil recalls.

 

他们参加了上海时装周,并受政府官员的邀请在中国北方的海滨城市-大连,办时装秀。“大连与温哥华很相似,沿海城市,依山傍水,与之不同的是大连中国式的和因历史影响的苏联式的建筑风格”Jamil介绍说。“大连相比上海传统很多,少一点西方化的感觉,在大连有非常多的日本人,韩国和俄罗斯人,因为这些国家在几个世纪前就曾来到这里。那里的日本区域全部都是日本人,让你感觉身在日本,他们会吃饭喝酒到凌晨三点,即使是在周一的晚上,这里的俄罗斯区域也是如此。大连是一个很有意思的城市。

They participated in Shanghai Fashion Week, and were invited by government officials to show in Dalian, a northern port city. "It's a lot like Vancouver, a coastal city with mountains and ocean, but with Soviet- and Chinese-influenced architecture," Jamil describes. "They're much more traditional and less Westernized than Shanghai. And there are big Japanese, Korean and Russian communities because each of those countries came to Dalian through the last few centuries. There's a Japanese area where you only see Japanese people and you feel like you're in Japan – on a Monday night, they're eating and drinking till 3 a.m. And in the Russian area, same thing. It's a very interesting city."

 

他们还发现大连的服装制造要优于南方,并在那里建立了生产工作室,一年以后,他们搬到了那里,Alia定居大连,Jamil定居上海。

They also found the clothing manufacturing in Dalian to be superior to that in the south, and set up a production studio there. A year later they moved, with Alia settling in Dalian, and Jamil in Shanghai.

Mint-Turkish-Tiles.jpg

JUMA会将同一种印花设计结合到所有类型的商品中,

袜子、皮包、服装、口袋巾、抱枕等,形成一整个系列。

JUMA

 

 

需要做一些调整,入乡随俗,当然。但是Alia非常有语言天赋,只用了两年时间,就达到了流利的中文水平。Jamil试着去喜欢让他嘴唇发麻得四川火锅。

There were adjustments, of course. But Alia has a knack for languages, and only took two years to become fluent. And Jamil has learned to love the spicy hot pots that turn his lips numb.

 

在中国建立他们生意的时候是很复杂的,Jamil承认。“在加拿大,你可以直接上网去登记一个名字。而在中国,需要大量的纸上工作和审查。你需要出示你其他生意的财务报表,来证明你有足够的投资资金。流程和操作非常繁琐复杂。你必须需要有一个全职工作的会计,并且每月按时交税。“但是从经济的角度去看” 并没有什么大的不同,他们称中国为共产主义国家,但是我却感觉不到这一点。中国人非常擅长做生意,喜欢合作。在这里你可以做你想做的,你可以创新。”

Setting up their business was complicated, Jamil admits. "In Canada, you can go online and register a name. In China, there's tons of paperwork and scrutiny. You have to show financial statements of your other businesses, show you have investment money. And operations are complicated; you have to have full-time accounting in place and submit taxes every month." But from an economic perspective, "it's not that different. They call it a communist country but it doesn't feel like it. They are very business-driven and business-friendly. You can do what you want. You can innovate."

 

目前JUMA正在扩大家居饰品及室内设计方面,地毯、毛毯等。并且已经在印花袜子中找到了商机。他们的JUMA品牌独立商店坐落于上海四季酒店,天津四季酒店,以及在北京四季酒店的品牌集合店内皆有销售。Jamil认为他们结合现代的设计,中等的价格以及独一无二的印花能够引起广泛的共鸣。“目标是大众群体吗?不,我们针对的是小众客户,”Jamil说,但是考虑到上海的人口数量几乎可以赶超整个加拿大,在中国有一百多个城市人口数量超过三百万,即使针对小众客户也足够了。

Juma is expanding its home décor category with coasters and blankets, and they've found a great niche in socks. Their own Jumastudio shops are in Four Seasons Hotels in Shanghai and Tianjin, with a third shop-in-shop in Beijing. Jamil feels it's their combination of contemporary styling, mid-price point and unique prints that have struck a chord. "Is it for everyone? No. It's a niche customer," Jamil says. But given that Shanghai alone is almost as populated as Canada, and there are 100 cities in China with more than 3 million people, a niche market is enough.

JUMA 数码印花袜子

JUMA

 

JUMA设计他们自己独特的印花,在他们自己拍下的照片的基础上,有时加上绘画,图形,数码效果。其中最畅销之一的瓷砖印花灵感来源于他们的母亲在土耳其拍下的一张照片。关于指责把宗教文化产物带入时装设计中的话题在时尚行业中还能更热门一些吗?“如果你试着去把宗教行为带入时尚,那明显就是越线了。”Jamil坚信。而且JUMA兄妹继承的印度以及肯尼亚文化血液,以及在如此年轻的年龄就接受到众多国家的文化,如果这些所有的个人经历没有渗入到他们的创作中,那可能是很奇怪的。

The Jumas create all their own prints, incorporating photos they shoot themselves, sometimes adding drawings, graphics or digital effects. A tile print based on photos their mother took in Turkey is the team's bestseller. Could the brand be accused of cultural appropriation, a hot topic in fashion today? "When it's tied to religion, that's where you cross the line," Jamil believes. And with the pair's Indian/Kenyan heritage, and exposure to so many cultures from such a young age, it might be odd if all this personal experience didn't seep into their creative output.

 

Jamil说他会和妹妹为了可预见的未来继续留在中国,相信他们自己的事业有着巨大增长的潜力,以及对他们针对零售行业以及酒店客户的产品非常有信心。但是他们会建议其他加拿大设计师走他们的路吗?除非他们能拿得出真正独一无二的东西。Jamil说道。“你必须得发自内心的创作,那才是最真实的,离开这一点,就没有生意可言。”

Jamil says he and his sister will remain in China for the foreseeable future, given there is so much growth potential for their own line, as well as the products they develop for retail and hospitality clients. But would they advise other Canadian designers to follow their path? Not unless they have something to offer that is truly unique, Jamil says. "You have to create a product that speaks to your heart, that is truly authentic. Without that you don't have a business."